Saving the Ocean, One Turtle at a Time

Last night I had the opportunity to participate in the most amazing research project ever. I spent the entire night hanging out on a beach collecting data on leatherback sea turtles as they came ashore to lay their eggs.

It all started a couple of months ago, when one of SVM clubs held their annual Ocean Spirits meeting. Ocean Spirits is the name of the group that spends 6 months of the year tracking, tagging, and collecting data on all of the sea turtles that come to Levera Beach in Grenada to nest. The researchers stay up every night and monitor the beach for nesting activities. Our Exotics and Wildlife Society has a partnership with Ocean Spirits allowing groups of 4 veterinary students at a time to go up to Levera to assist with the research collecting. The dates range from mid-March through finals for us and we go on Friday and Saturday nights. EWS holds a lottery in the spring for sign up, and groups are chosen from there.

Before any of the students were allowed to go to the beach, we all attended a lecture on the research project. Ocean Spirits described their mission to us, showed us how the data collection process occurs, and gave us some background information on the turtles. After that each group has taken turns heading 1.5-2 hours up the eastern coast of Grenada to participate in one of the most unique and incredible experiences vet school in Grenada has to offer. 

Yesterday evening, we left True Blue at just after 6p and began the long journey up the east coast of Grenada. Even though Grenada isn't all that large and to get from school to Levera was only 23km, the winding roads and "interesting" drivers mean that it takes a lot longer to get from point A to point B. The directions on how to get there describe passing landmarks, rather than road names. Phrases like "following the Sugar Factory," "you [will] reach a small bridge with traffic light," "you'll know you've reached Tivoli when you see a gas station on your right [and] a few hundred meters from the station you will see Large church at top of playing field on your right," "there should be some small shacks/rum shops ahead of you at the turn," and "continue until you reach the center of R Salle where you'll find a roundabout with signposts" were all we had to guide us in the dark (with little to no extra street lighting) to the beach. When we reached Antoine Bay, all of the lights and traces of civalization melted away into the darkness. To the left you saw mountainous jungle, to the right you saw (smelled and heard) the gentle ocean waves. A few minute beyond this point, we reached the "end" of our road. To go left, the area was chained off and being guarded, to continue straight was blocked off with signs. The man standing watch informed us that the research team had not yet passed through and we could just wait until they arrived. After they arrived, we followed them down a bumpy dirt road to the beach.

When we arrived at the beach, we unloaded the cars in the dark with red lamps and traveled a short distance to a set of beached boats. Little tiny rowboats used as fishing boats during the day served as our "camp site." No tents, no tarps, just laying out under the stars. Even though it was only 7:30p at this point, it seemed like it could be the middle of the night as it was pitch black out with only the stars and sliver of moon casting a soft glow on the water for lighting. We dropped our belongings into the hull of one of the boats and set off on our first "run." There's no running actually involved, it's just what they called the beach patrol trips. My three groupmates and I set off after our research supervisor Chris, as he began explaining our roles for the night. The beach was a lot longer than we all had expected, but we didn't encounter any turtles on our way to the end. When we reached the end of the beach, we sat down and Chris went through each piece of equipment in the bags we were carrying. Each sweep occurs 30 minutes apart, so we hung out introducing ourselves before our next sweep.

As we headed back towards our camp area, we came across our first turtle! It was extremely thrilling to stumble upon this beautiful gigantic animal hauling itself along the sand until she found a spot she felt was suitable for a nest. She began to dig herself a a pit for her body with her front flippers and then began excavating a deep hole for her eggs. While we patiently watched, we radioed back to the other team to let them know a turtle was discovered. A tour group headed our way to watch the process, and when they arrived, they informed us that they had passed another turtle coming up to nest. The other team had already come across a third turtle, so a bit of splitting up had to occur to cover them all! My friend and I volunteered to remain with the current turtle and tour group while Chris and our other classmates went to check out the newest arrival. My friend and I watched with eager anticipation as our turtle dug a deep nest. I recorded information on the data sheet as my friend threw on a glove and got ready to count the eggs as they fell into the nest. In a very no-invasive way, we counted the eggs as they were laid into the nest. It was a spectacular process to watch. The turtles lay a combination of yolked eggs that are fertilized and will hatch and yolkless eggs that are smaller and meant to be added protection for the nest. All in all, this turtle laid 147 eggs! Average nest size is about 120, so we had quite a few more to count than normal! Chris and our classmates returned during the laying period to check on us. When the turtle finished laying and began to cover her nest with sand, a small nest tag was placed in with the eggs. When the nest is mostly filled, a rope end is placed so that when the turtle leaves, measurements from the areal markers, vegetation, and ocean could be made. As she was covering her nest, Chris and my friend took measurements of her carapace (shell) length and width. We said our goodbyes to the turtle (and tour group) and headed back to check on our second turtle of the night.

This time my two classmates took the lead, repeating the same process my friend and I had for their turtle. We weren't at the second site long before learning that a 3rd turtle had come ashore! My friend and I set off to repeat the process, and this time it was my turn to count the eggs as they dropped into the nest. Laying on my stomach at the edge of the hole, I let them pass through my hand as I kept track of how many were dropping. The eggs are slimy, soft and round, not hard like a chicken's egg. As they drop into the hole on top of each other, small dents are made in the shells. They were slightly larger then a golf ball in size, and appeared to be a tanish color (although it's kind of hard to judge color when all you have to see with is a red lamp). The whole laying process can take anywhere from an hour to multiple hours, depending on how quickly the turtle picks her spot and how quickly she returns to sea (versus wandering around making false nests). Between when we first left at 7:45p and 12:45a, we recorded data for 6 turtles! It was really an amazing process and exhilarating feeling.

We returned to our camp to take a break. Stretched out on the sand under the stars, I read through my anesthesia notes under a red glow. I don't think I have ever seen so many stars in my life. Being from suburbia, the light pollution generally drowns out many of the smaller stars, and even the small amount of light pollution from the south end of the island makes it harder to see the faint ones.

Around 1:30a, we had a bit of an unpleasant surprise roll in. Clouds blocked out all of our beautiful stars and it began to sprinkle. Great. We still had several more hours and we were going to have spend them soaking wet? Not cool Grenada, not cool. Luckily it turned out to be a tease and no more than a few sprinkles were felt at that point. Then we got our real surprise. Rain shower! Cold, wet rain plopped onto our belongs and the sand, leaving us a little more damp than just the humidity already had! We ended up getting very lucky and after about 5 minutes, the rain stopped and we didn't encounter any more until we left in the morning.

Our second run was at 2a with two of the Grenadian leaders, Steve and Kimron. We followed them along the beach until we stumble upon a smaller turtle digging a nest. Another smaller group of tourists were quietly watching when we arrived. We began the data collection process and didn't arrive back at camp until after 3a. At that point it was snack time! A dried out peanut butter sandwich for me (oh how I miss soft bread!) with a little bit of water. When I packed for the evening originally, I brought as much water as I possibly could, not stopping to think about the bathroom situation. Turns out the woods are the only option! Not feeling to excited at the idea of sneaking around in the woods, I decided to limit my water consumption for the night!

If I fell asleep at all, it wasn't for more than 10 or 15 minutes, because when Chris walked by our group at 4a for the next run, I heard him and my friend and I were immediately up and ready to follow. This time it was a quiet run. We hung out at the same spot we had initially and chatted. When we got back around 5a, the sky was already faintly starting to get light for sunrise. My friend and I watched the sun rise slowly over the distant islands.

 At around 6a, the whole group got up and rakes were distributed. In the early morning, the research group goes out and rakes the sand over where there are turtle tracks to help disguise the nests from possible poachers. There happened to be one more person than rakes, so I ended up just taking pictures in the day light. No early morning nester for us unfortunately. Or rather, fortunately, for as soon as we began loading the car at 6:30a, it began pouring rain!

The drive back was very pretty and peaceful. Not a whole lot of action happening that early in the morning, although we passed plenty of locals feeding their livestock and preparing for the day. When I got home, I dropped my stuff right inside the door and immediately hit the shower. I was so covered in sand, I knew that if I even paused for a minute, the inside of our apartment was going to end up looking like a beach!! I spent the rest of the day sleeping and feeling content and amazed at the experience I had just witnessed.

I hope that I have the opportunity to visit Levera Beach next spring. Who knows, maybe some day I'll eve come back and join the team as a researcher! What a truly amazing experience and job. I am so jealous! These animals are very special and this is something I won't ever forget.